97 Days
2000 km
120,000 vertical metres climbed
In mid 2006 Bogong owner Neil and his son Tim enjoyed an extraordinary journey across the spine of the European Alps. Starting on the sea in Trieste, Italy, their journey crossed five countries and many mountain passes to arrive back at the Mediterranean Sea in France at Menton 97 days later and both about 14 kilos lighter.
At various times their route took in a variety of long distance walking trails including the Via Alpina, E2 and GR5 but the route was of their own creation. Short sections of some well know walking routes such as the Tour of Mont Blanc were traversed and the crowds on such routes highlighted the wisdom of selecting their own route.
Accommodation was primarily in the excellent series of mountain huts that are sprinkled liberally across the alps in all countries. These serve a meal and offer dormitory style sleeping. No sleeping bags or tents were carried. So many mountain passes were crossed, often of over 3000m, that they lost count.
Walking Possibilities in Europe
Neil says that walking possibilities in the alps are almost unlimited. One needs to acknowledge that the alps are not a wilderness area like we we have in Australia and it is not possible to get that type of experience. Due to the network of serviced huts it is possible to walk without being burdened by heavy packs. The walking is often through incredible spectacular terrain. There are many easy walking possibilities but likewise much many of the routes are steep, challenging walking much harder than walking tracks in Australia. You will often require a head for heights.
The Highlights
Neil says it is difficult to pick one individual highlight. The trip will be remembered for the rhythm of walking day after day. There were many memorable days these being two best.
Day 55: Crossing the Kirsten Pass in Switzerland in a blizzard and through difficult snow conditions. Below is an extract from an email sent home after this day.
Day 89: A long day across 6 rough mountain passes on a little travelled route when we snuck over the border from France into Italy late in the trip.
A pic from both these days in included in the photo gallery.
Extract from email sent home.
Day 55 Sat 5th August
Well I am happy to report that we have had a really good day. I have received your Sat night email. I too managed to sleep in this morning, right through my alarm. We didn't get up till 8. Even so breakfast was meant to be at 8 and the breakfast room was still locked when we got there. Any way it was 9.45 when we got going. It rained all night and was still raining as we left. Pretty hard to get organised and set off into the rain. We had a really big climb out of the valley. The route was steep and spectacular up the valley wall, with awesome cliffs peering through the mist. Underfoot it remained very slippery.
Eventually we reached the snowline and continued up. It was very slippery in the snow, particularly where there was only a little over the ground. As it got deeper it was less slippery. We reached Muttsee Hut after 4 hrs and had some soup and a hot chocolate and ate some of our biscuits and cheese. We decided not to stay at this hut but to continue on over Kirsten Pass. This was at 2700m. Tim and I really enjoyed this crossing. It was like mid winter. The higher we went the more we were plugging steps in the snow. The rain stopped and we were getting snow showers instead. The route to the pass was marked by poles, but after the pass the poles stopped. So navigation was a real challenge because as you know the markers are painted on the rocks which were covered with snow. So onto the compass, and spotting the occasional cairn. A very strong wind was blowing and poor visibilty. It gave us a real sense of achievement to navigate our way across in such hostile conditions.
We eventually got to the next hut, Biferten Hut, at about 6.30. As we came to it we could see that it was a very small stone hut. Wandered up to the door and all the walking poles were stacked outside. Opened the door , and through this tiny entrance it was stacked full. A big group of Germans were here. But there are two beds left. Despite being packed they were most welcoming. All the beds are in the loft which has a ladder to get to it. Tiny, tiny hut, but very friendly and warm inside. Very cold outside.
As you would say, lots of character. Downstairs there is just a kitchen, and a room with three tables. I haven't found the loo yet, I think it must be outside. For dinner we had some very nice soup served from a large pot on the table. We are sitting on the same table as the hut warden and his wife. No spare space. Then pasta with some cooked chicken pieces. The German group, who are from Stuttgart, have just started a singsong. One of them has a ukulele. Most convivial with them singing songs in both German and English whilst the weather storms outside.
So we have had a very good day. Hard - over 2000m climbed, but enjoyable...........
Bogong stocks the largest range of specialist walking guides in Melbourne to Europe as well as guides on Via Ferratas and climbing.
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