Hiking the Continental Divide Trail (CDT)

The Continental Divide Trail (CDT) runs 5000km from Mexico to Canada, following the Continental Divide of the Americas along the Rocky Mountains. It traverses this mountain range through New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming, Idaho and Montana.

Officially recognised as a National Scenic Trail in 1978, the notion of the CDT was, and remains, to allow people from all walks of life to experience the natural beauty of the Rocky Mountains and to conserve its natural, historical and cultural landmarks. The trail passes through a diverse landscape, from the arid desert of New Mexico, commonly referred to as the “boot heel”, to the awe-inspiring mountains of Colorado. Today the trail is internationally recognised as one of the foremost long-distance hiking trails in the world.

Most hikers will hike the whole trail in a five- to six-month period from April to September (northbound). The following guide refers to completing the CDT in 2019 over a 5-month period.

The trail is a mental and physical challenge. It’s hard not to be overwhelmed by the magnitude of the endeavour. People with no hiking experience have finished the CDT; you just have to be prepared with the right equipment and the right mindset.

There are many different logistical approaches to hiking the CDT, however there is general information that is applicable to every thru-hike. Here are some the most common questions Bogong staff gets asked about the CDT.


CDT Resources

These are multiple resources that are useful in preparation and throughout the journey.

Continental Divide Trail Coalition

The Continental Divide Trail Coalition (CDTC) is the official CDT organisation. It works directly with property owners, US Forest Service and other federal land management organisations. It is a great starting point if you are interested in hiking the CDT. There is a plethora of information on their website. It is here that you can arrange permits, transport to the beginning of the trail and water caches.

Guthooks

Guthooks is an app that can be downloaded to any smartphone. It is arguably the most valuable electronic resource.

Guthooks uses GPS navigation and does not require phone service to be used. It costs USD$62.99 (at the time of writing) for the whole thing or USD$14.99 for each state. The app is broken down into sections from one major town to the next. The first section is free, so you can see how the app works before having to pay. Developed by thru-hikers, it is easy to use and has reliable up-to-date information on the following:

  • Maps
  • Alternate routes
  • Route closures
  • Elevation profile
  • Campsites
  • Trail notes
  • Water sources
  • Towns – Accommodation, food, post office hours, transport to and from
  • Trail angels²

For safety, many use Guthooks throughout their whole hike. This requires a smart phone. As this drains battery, a battery pack will also be needed.

While Guthooks are not essential to survival for the trail, it is incredibly useful. Almost all hikers have it along the trail.

CDT Facebook Page

The CDT Facebook page is Continental Divide Trail Hikers and Alumni. The page is a platform for up-to-date information and a networking space for fellow hikers and trail angels that is specific to the seasons, people and trail conditions of the year.

CDT Blogs

Many hikers write really informative blogs while they are on the trail. Reading blogs is a great way to get practical and logistical information. It is also a way to get a feel for the culture of thru-hiking and what it is like to hike a long-distance trail physically, mentally and socially. Have a look at other Bogong Blogs, or give “CDT Trail Blogs” a search on Google.


Best Visa for Australian Citizens Doing the CDT

The best option is the B2 visa: it is a tourist visa that allows a stay in the US for six months. Visas are subject to the criminal background, etc. See USA Travel Docs for more information.


Getting to the Continental Divide Trail

The CDT can be hiked in either direction. The most popular direction is to hike northbound, beginning at the southern terminus on the US Mexico border.

There are three southern starting points – Columbus, Antelope Wells and Crazy Cook – all located in the southwest corner of New Mexico. The most popular and most official of the termini is Crazy Cook.

Crazy Cook is located near the small town of Lordsburg, New Mexico. Major cities near Lordsburg to fly into are El Paso, Albuquerque, Sante Fe, Phoenix and Tuscon.

From Australia, fly to Los Angeles then El Paso. From El Paso, get a 3-hour bus to Lordsburg, New Mexico.

The Crazy Cook Monument is roughly a 3-hour drive from Lordsburg. The most popular way to get to the southern terminus is the CDTC shuttle. This costs USD$120 (in 2019) and can be booked here. It is possible to get your own transport. You can arrange a lift on the CDT Facebook Page with another hiker who was starting on the same day.

Try arranging transport from Lordsburg to the trailhead ahead of time. The road is rough and has very little traffic. If you are arranging your own transport, a 4WD is recommended. A vehicle with a lot of clearance is necessary.


Resupply/food on the CDT

The most common questions about the CDT asked are to do with food/resupply. It should be no surprise that a good menu is one of the most important aspects to a successful thru-hike. Not only is it important to meet adequate dietary requirements, eating well can also be a source of great comfort and pleasure.

To resupply food there are three options – pack food ahead of time and have it sent in the mail, shop from the supermarkets in town or a combination of both.

There is a privately-owned campground called Ghost Ranch New Mexico that you can send one resupply to. There were no shops to resupply from there, but they did have an office that accepted mail for CDT hikers. Other than that, you can resupply from supermarkets. Sometimes these are more like general stores with limited variety, but you can safely make do.

Don’t get overwhelmed by thinking you need to have your menu and resupplies planned out for the whole trail. It is unrealistic to stick to a schedule the whole time. While resupplying can seem complex in the beginning, it soon becomes second nature. Once you’re on the track for a few days, you’ll get comfortable calculating how many days of food are needed for your next section ahead. See our Lightweight Food For Hiking blog post for tips on what and how much food to carry. Consider carrying in your pack a couple of back up goodies just in case those estimates are a bit off.

The trail crosses a road that would go to a town with a supermarket every 5-ish days. The longest stint Bogong staff have had on the trail is 7 days before a resupply.

If you plan to have all your food sent out to you in the mail for the whole trail, there are several factors to keep in mind.

  • You will need to know someone who is able to send out the packages for the duration of the trail. It is important that this individual is reliable and reachable as they will need to send the packages at the right time for you to receive them.
  • Cost – post can be expensive depending on how far away the packages are being sent.
  • Post office hours. You'll need to time your arrival in town with the post office's opening hours. I saw hikers wait in town for a whole weekend waiting for packages to arrive.
  • Be sure to pack a variety of food. You will get sick of eating the same thing and preferences will vary depending on the conditions.
  • Along with food, it is also a good idea to pack other supplies like extra zip lock bags, toiletries and new gear.

Choosing to buy food along the way can reduce the cost and provides flexibility. It is important to me to eat as much fresh food as possible while hiking. This would not have been possible with resupplies sent in the mail.

It is possible to get much of your food from Hiker Boxes³ as long as you aren’t picky.


Water on the CDT

Most of the CDT has daily water access. There are sections in New Mexico where a water cache service is made available through the CDTC for a small fee of USD$10. This is a highly recommended service as it avoids unnecessary long water carries.

To purify my water,try Katadyn Micropur Forte Tablets. You could also use a water filter. Many of the water sources are used by animals and require treatment.

Most hikers will use a combination of drink bottles and water reservoirs. A good start is 2x 1.5L bottles and a 2L Platypus soft bottle. Any system is suitable as long as you have capacity to carry adequate water – 4–6L water capacity is recommended, although this may vary depending on where you are on the trail.


Hitch Hiking on the CDT

The best way to get into town is to hitch hike. Occasionally for less travelled roads, a lift with a trail angel could be arranged. While hitching can be daunting at first, it is a necessary aspect of thru-hiking. Hikers relay they rarely wait longer than 30 minutes to get a ride.

There is a good hitching culture in the US, particularly in mountain towns where most locals are outdoorsy types. It is important to trust your instincts hitch hiking; it is acceptable to turn down rides, no matter how seemingly awkward. If you feel uncomfortable, try and find other hikers getting to town.


Hiking in Bear Country

Black bears are in every state along the CDT. They are rarely aggressive and are for the most part more interested in trash cans than a hiker. They are most likely to show aggression if you are between a mum and her cubs. If you see a black bear, keep your distance as you would any large animal with claws. Cross a path way a black bear, remain calm and observe (from afar).

From Wyoming north, brown or grizzly bears are commonplace and the risk of a grizzly attack should not be underestimated. Most of the time grizzly bears will only attack a solo hiker, so hiking in groups is recommended. Most attacks occur when bears are taken by surprise or feel threatened, so if alone on your hike, make yourself known with a yell or sing.

It is required to carry bear spray through Wyoming, Idaho and Montana. Bear spray can be purchased in most towns in these states. Make sure you know how to operate the bear spray; tutorials can be found easily on YouTube. Bear spray should always be within reach. You can buy spray holders that strap to shoulder straps of your pack. The elasticated water bottle holders on the side of many packs are a great spot for them. Pack off? Bring the spray with you (when going to the toilet) or have it close to hand when sitting and sleeping.

It is not required to carry a bear-proof food bag or hard-sided bear cannister, but it is recommended. The most popular choice is an Ursack. You can also carry a bear cannister, but these are heavy and bulky. They do however make a good seat. The Ursack is an extremely abrasion-resistant bag. It has a drawstring system that is difficult for bears to get into. While the Ursack will prevent bears from getting into your food, it does not stop the bears from finding the food. Due to this, line your Ursack with a scent-proof bag (this is essentially a very heavy-duty zip-lock bag).

Some campsites have bear boxes to keep your food in or poles where you can hang your food. You can even hang your Ursack from a tree. Never sleep with your food or anything with a scent. Any food, cooking gear and toiletries should be kept in your Ursack. Although cumbersome for the non-bear initiated, this will quickly became routine. It can even serve as an incentive to get out of your sleeping bag in the morning for a coffee!

Yellowstone and Glacier national parks both require you to watch a video on bear safety.

Make sure you are diligent in following these safety practices. While it was scary at first, walking through bear country is a humbling reminder that you’re a guest in a truly wild landscape.


CDT Permits

You cannot obtain an all-encompassing permit for the whole CDT. Each permit has to be obtained individually.

Permits are required for the following:

  • Glacier National Park
  • Yellowstone National Park
  • Rocky Mountain National Park – The RMNP only requires a permit if you are camping in the park. Because the CDT only goes through 25 miles (40km) of the park, most hikers will get through in one day and avoid the permit.
  • New Mexico State Lands Permit – Can be obtained ahead of time from the CDTC website.
  • Blackfeet Reservation and Indian Peaks Wilderness – The CDT only goes through both these areas for a few miles, like RMNP they only require a permit if you are camping in them.

Gear for Hiking the CDT

Footwear for the CDT

Most thru-hikers, will opt to wear trail runners because they are light and comfortable. The Salomon Pro 3D or the La Sportiva Ultra Raptor are suitable options. These both offer more support than most trail runners and have an aggressive tread that will last longer and give more traction on slippery terrain.

Another option is a lightweight boot, such as the La Sportiva Pyramid, this is a happy medium of added support through the ankle and body of the shoe while not adding too much weight. Few hikers go for a heavyweight boot, but it can be a good option if you are carrying a heavier pack, have a history of ankle or knee injuries or simply prefer a more supportive boot.

Regardless of the shoe you are using, they will most likely need to be replaced along the way. Hikers have reported using 3 pairs of the same model of trail runner.

It is an option to get different shoes depending on the section of trail. A trail runner is perfect for the heat of New Mexico where the terrain is mostly flat and dry. A boot would be more appropriate for the steep terrain of Colorado or Montana.

Try find a good quality, medium-cushion sock that will withstand as many kilometres as possible without getting holes. Socks will of course be replaced along the way. A synthetic or a wool/synthetic combination sock that will breathe well and dry quickly is ideal. A good option is the Bridgedale Hike Mid Performance Sock. Carry at least two pairs of hiking socks and one pair of thick warm socks to sleep in, These can also be used as a backup pair of hiking socks. Warm feet can improve overall temperature and comfort level. Small luxuries like a pair of clean-ish sleeping socks can be monumental to the experience and completion of a long-distance hike.


Recommended Clothing for the CDT

Some carry the same clothing for the entirety of the trail; others will change their clothing along the way depending on the location and season. For example, carrying a lightweight 2-layer jacket in New Mexico then switching to a heavier 3-layer jacket in Colorado. Most hikers usually opt to carry the same clothing throughout the whole trail.

It is important to have clothing that offers sun protection – a lightweight shirt, shorts/pants and a sunhat. For warmth you will need a set of thermals such as Icebreaker 260 tech leggings and crew top as well as a good fleece or insulated jacket. A down jacket has the best weight to warmth ratio. The Mont Zero Ultralight Jacket is a good option. It is important to note that down will not work when wet, whereas a synthetic option such as the Rab Xenon Hoody will. Lightweight down jackets are also not as durable as many of the synthetic options.

A good rain coat is a must. There are good lightweight 2-layer options, such as the Outdoor Research Helium II Jacket. However, if you are after a jacket to last the whole trail, a more durable 3-layer rain coat is recommended: the Outdoor Research Optimizer is a fantastic option for a lightweight, breathable three-layer jacket. Gloves are also essential; a great option is the Outdoor Research Vigor Midweight Sensor Gloves.

Bring some clothes that are specifically for town. This is great for when you’ll need to do laundry. Some hikers would choose not to carry town clothes and would wear their wet weather gear or a towel while doing their laundry. Others may thank us for the town clothes idea.

Below is a full list of clothes a Bogong staffer used on their trip to the CDT:


Sleep and Shelter

A good quality down sleeping bag rated to at least -10 is recommended, the Mont Helium 600 is a great option. Keep in mind that sleeping bag temperature ratings are a general guide. Men and women have different ratings and some people feel the cold more than others.

A sleeping mattress can be just as important when it comes to temperature. There are plenty of great lightweight options such as the Exped Synmat HL (available in different sizes) or the Thermarest Neoair. Most hikers prefer an air mattress over a foam mattress for smaller packed size, greater comfort and warmth.

There are great campsites along the CDT. I never had a problem finding enough space for my two-person shelter. You will need a good quality 3-season shelter. The Mont Moondance tent is a great option because of its balance of weight and durability. Consider a two-person shelter when hiking alone because it means the luxury of extra room and all your gear in the tent with you. Of course, it means carrying more weight, but with the quality of tents it might mean a few hundred grams extra at most.

The dry conditions of the trail mean that often it is possible to sleep under the stars. This is referred to as “cowboy camping”. Because of this, think about carrying a Tyvec ground sheet. You can purchase Tyvec by the metre from most hardware stores in America. It will be a light and inexpensive addition to your kit that could prove to be invaluable – it’s a popular choice among thru-hikers.


Navigation

The trail itself is very well marked and maintained. Guthooks most hikers used for navigation; however, in case technology fails, it is a good idea to carry maps and a compass. Make sure to get a compass that will work in the northern hemisphere. Maps can be obtained from the CDTC website.


Safety

A PLB (personal locater beacon) is an absolutely essential item. While many sections of the CDT have phone service, you should not rely on this alone. No matter how prepared you are, you can never discount the fact that you may need a rescue.

Make sure to have your PLB registered with your personal information, test it before your trip and be aware that different brands and models have different battery lives. See Bogong Blog postPLBs.


First Aid

Depending on your individual needs, your first aid kit may vary. Always carry sunscreen, lip balm and tape for blisters. Other items such as personal medication and insect bite cream can be tailored to fit your personal needs.


Miscellaneous

Most thru-hikers use a simple, single-compartment roll-top pack. Be sure to choose one that is durable and comfortable enough, with handy pockets. Capacity is based on personal needs; solo hikers will need more room than group hikers. A typical capacity would be around 65L.

Trekking poles are not for everyone, although once people give them a try, they rarely look back. They are great when hiking in uneven terrain, particularly over such a long distance. For an over 4000km trail, your knees and ankles will thank you! Poles are diverse in use too as they can also be used to set up shelters with your tarp.

While some hikers use trekking poles or tent pegs to dig cat holes (place to do your #2), this can be time consuming and less than ideal if you are in a rush. Consider the Deuce of Spades trowel. At just 17g, it is very light and compact and easily slips into a heavy-duty zip lock bag with toilet paper. See our blog post on correct toileting procedures. Why not give yourself the air of civility while in the muck? Carry some hand sanitiser.

A bum bag is also another great addition. It’s easily accessible and can keep your camera, phone, PLB and other goodies handy.

Although some hikers may not find use for them, Microspikes should be included in your pack. Try the Kahtoola Microspikes and the Grivel Ghost Ice Axe once you reach Colarado. Weather can be so erratic that once you’re in the position of needing the Microspikes, you’re definitely too late. Get them now and thank yourself later.

Sunglasses are also essential, we suggest polarised.

Keep in mind that you can always purchase gear online and have it sent to you if you want to make adjustments or replace items.

See the rest of my gear list below.


CDT Gear List

Sleep and Shelter


Eating and Drinking


Other


A long-distance hike such as the CDT can seem like an enormous undertaking. It is easy to be put off by the magnitude of the trail. One of the best things that comes with taking on a challenge that by nature takes a long time is that there’s no way to not be present in the moment. Taking it one day at a time makes 5000km easier to conceptualise. If you are at all interested in hiking the CDT or any long-distance trail, Bogong encourages you to do your research, get in touch with other hikers through blogs or social media and don’t be intimidated by the length of the trail. The most important thing is a desire to be there. If you are researching the trail, chances are you already have that desire.

Completing the CDT, hikers tell us they are filled with an overwhelming sense of gratitude to be able to bear witness to such natural beauty. Something unexpected but spoken of consistently was the incredible cultural experience of walking through small-town America. The trail takes you to places that are well and truly off the tourist highway. You’ll have the opportunity to interact with people with whom you’d never usually cross paths with and experience the social diversity that makes the American cultural landscape so unique.


  • ¹thru-hike: An established end-to-end hiking trail or long-distance trail, usually going through a country. The term is most commonly used in America in association with the Appalachian Trail (AT), the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) and the Continental Divide Trail (CDT).
  • ²trail angel: A person or group that assists hikers with basically anything, most commonly transport to and from the trail head and accommodation in towns. Trail angels also help out by leaving water caches on dry sections of the trail and other such conveniences. Trail angels are a huge support throughout the trail and a major reason why the community and infrastructure that surrounds the trail is so strong. Trail angels sometimes charge a fee or ask a small donation, most of the time this is to cover costs like petrol.
  • ³hiker box: A box located at many of the places in town that a hiker would frequent – e.g. hotel/motel, post office, campground, information centre. As a hiker you can leave anything and take anything from a hiker box. It is not a trade system – if you have nothing to leave you can still take. Most of the contents of a hiker box are unwanted food and gear.

See our range of hiking gear.

Questions? Visit us, email us or call us (03 9600 0599).


More Articles