Manaslu Trail Race 2024 - Nicole Paton


The Manaslu Trail Race is a challenging multi-stage trail race passing through some of Nepal’s most beautiful Himalayan landscapes in a part-circumnavigation of Manaslu, the world’s eighth highest mountain. Check out Brand Ambassador Nicole Paton's stage-by-stage breakdown of this out-of-this-world serious adventure.

Getting to the Start Line

It was a lengthy and exhausting journey to Kathmandu with a small delay. The views on the way in made up for it. I've never flown in only 2 days before an international race before (the original plan was 3 days and no overnight flight). I would see how the jet lag and travel exhaustion panned out.

3x Buses of trail runners were bouncing along Nepalese roads for 8 hours. Goats, mules, river crossings and many close calls to the edge of the mountain roads! I was really looking forward to completing the next 9 days on foot as I thought the bus ride would be harder than the run.


Stage 1 – Sotikhola to Dhoban – 24.9km

“Sotikhola sits on the banks of the Budi Gandaki river, which we’ll follow almost to its source. The first day used to be almost flat (Nepali flat), on good (if rough) trails with plenty of ups and downs. We’ll pass rice fields and run through small villages.” (Manaslu Trail Race website)

It was incredible! Huge vert, super technical, spectacular views, perfect weather albeit a bit hot. Waterfalls were great to cool off in. I was the 4th female (1st Foreigner) after the 3x amazing Nepalese athletes. What was extra special is that my husband John and I ran a large portion of it together as I was trying to keep a lid on the effort, especially the descents, and John has improved a lot recently.

1800m of elevation gain in the first 12km followed by a vertical 1km of steps to descend again. Then a bit more up. It was so much fun running and filming with John until I dropped him because he decided to buy a RedBull at an aid station.

So good!


Stage 2 – Dhoban to Deng – 27km

“Again today we’re following the course of the Budhi Gandaki river with many short climbs and descents. The rice paddy fields will disappear to be replaced by millet, barley and maize. We run through Jagat, a pretty village with a paved way through it (sadly soon to be a road)” (Manaslu Trail Race website)

Due to the fact that the fastest runners are too fast for the course markers, the top 15 were asked to have a handicapped start 1 hour after the main pack. We were both in the handicap start. We then encountered some extra handicaps along the way.

Most astonishingly, about 20x men moving a giant length of heavy cable along a narrow goat track above a ravine! It was impossible to pass until they stopped to let us squeeze by. Today was all about living on the edge. Don’t look down!


Stage 3 – Deng to Hinang Gompa – 23.5km

“Today’s start will be fast and flat for the first minute. Then we descend steeply to cross the river over a suspension bridge (walking please!) and then it’s a steep uphill again to reach a high traverse that follows the river’s course. We’ll pass villages of Bihi, Ghap and then have a long, steady climb.” (Manaslu Trail Race website)

I pushed really hard for Stage 3 and managed to run a large portion with Sonima from Nepal. I finished just ahead of her and surprisingly also ahead of one of the two Anita’s (both from Nepal) for 2nd place for the stage. I was still in 4th place cumulative. The finish was in the most stunning location at the Hinang Gompa where we spent the night in a Buddhist Monastery.


Stage 4 – Hinag to Samagoan – 24km

“Again there’s a downhill start to the day. We reach the village of Sho and the trail levels out. There is a short climb up to Lho, a village with a huge monastery and an awesome (first) view of Manaslu.” (Manaslu Trail Race website)

This was our first taste of serious altitude reaching 4150m. Things were really ramping up at this stage. After a rough day with gastric distress I finished this stage in 4th by 1 second behind the 3rd Nepalese girl, Sonima.


Stage 5 – Samagaun to Manaslu Base Camp to Samagaun – 12.6km

“Today is a bright an early start to marvel at sunrise on Manalsu (cloud dependent) and after a leisurely breakfast, comes the run. After a kilometre of fairly level but rising trail, we turn off to head towards Manaslu Base Camp.” (Manaslu Trail Race website)

Vertical Kilometre (VK) to Manaslu base camp and return. The highest VK trail race in the world and we got to do it with 100km + 7000m of vert in the legs the 4 days prior. Rough going up but the views were mind blowing and it was so much fun belting back down an open 1300m descent. I did really well finishing 4th female behind the Nepalese girls and 8th overall. The legs certainly knew about it the next day.


Stage 6 – Samagaun to Samdo – 8km

“In 2013 for the first time we organised the Sama mini-marathon, a race through the village for around 50 children from the Samagaon school. Amazing fun! We’ve continued to work with the school since and it is still a lot of fun.” (Manaslu Trail Race website)

This was the shortest race stage at only 8km and honestly everyone was grateful. Before the start there was a children's race with the local village school kids which was a lot of fun to watch. We then took a short 2km hike to Lake Birendra where the start line was located. This was a stunning glacial lake with a mountain backdrop and was the highlight of the day.


Active Rest – Hike to the Tibetan Border – 20km

“Today is a partial rest day, at least a day off from running in this tough schedule. Those with the energy are invited to walk up to the border, the Rui La, at 4998m between Nepal and Tibet. It’s quite a long walk but we’ll take it easy.” (Manaslu Trail Race website)

As part of the acclimatization process and to enjoy more of the stunning scenery we undertook a 20km hike to the Tibetan Border. This was not a rest day as advertised as the hike was quite challenging. Especially the 3km steep ascent to the border at 5000m. The scenery was stunning in every direction.

The Nepalese runners were hilarious and love to dance and make Tik Toks at every view point. We had a lot of fun with them trying to teach us their dance and film it under the Chinese flag at the border.

Hike / Run – Samdo to Bimtang via Larkya Pass – 22km

“The views are incredible from this route and this is the last day up high. Previously we’ve walked this stage and continue with the decision not to race it. If you’re strong you can feel free to run it at your own pace, or in a group of similarly able runners.” (Manaslu Trail Race website)

The pass day was going to be long so we had a very early start. 4am on the trail for the slower hikers and 5am on the trail for us faster hikers. The 4am wake up was hard, as was jamming down as much food as possible at 4:30am. Some of the food came back up at about 2km in.

The ascent was hard work but so stunning and also very cold. It was hard to manage layers. Cumulative fatigue combined with altitude and constant altitude induced coughing made for tough going but it was absolutely spectacular. I took hundreds of photos and videos which distracted me from the cold and the effort. Thanks to @trailz.dk for the company on the trails and the photogenic red jacket.

After the Larke Pass it was a steep and rocky descent on tired legs where the views were next level. I didn't think it could get better beyond the pass but we were rewarded with a completely new view of an entirely different mountain range on the opposing side.


This was the only day the mule train carrying our bags the entire way was faster than us and we had to wait for them to pass. It seems mules are faster than humans when hiking at 5000+ metres. It's incredible how sure footed they are on the steep rocky terrain.

This was also the longest of all the days from a time perspective. Despite being only 22km, it took me 9.5 hours to complete. Around 7 hours moving time plus 4 breaks.


Stage 7 – Bimtang to Tilie – 18.2km

“The views are incredible from this route and this is the last day up high. Previously we’ve walked this stage and continue with the decision not to race it. If you’re strong you can feel free to run it at your own pace, or in a group of similarly able runners.” (Manaslu Trail Race website)

This was the final day of racing and it was about as cold as the photo of the start line looks! I was in the fast group which meant starting an hour later which should have made it marginally warmer... Can't say we noticed the benefit that much.

After a rough time over the pass the day before, John wasn't doing so well and had to be on oxygen for the night. He had a massive fluid build-up and his stats kept dropping to 50-60% when he came off the oxygen. Therefore he was told he could not run so he left with the early start group to walk slowly down.


Meanwhile I got to enjoy belting down the 18km of mostly technical descent with reckless abandon and no care for the quads as it was the last day. This was so much fun! Technical downhill = my favourite – 4th female, 1st foreign female again for this stage. Those Nepalese are just too fast!

Results

Officially I finished 4th Female, 1st Foreign Female, 1st Masters Female, 8th Overall, 4th Foreigner Overall. It was an absolute pleasure and a privilege to race alongside (mostly trailing well behind) these amazing trail athletes from Nepal. Experiences like this stay with you for a lifetime.


It is wonderful that we were able to support the Nepalese athletes through the charitable side of the Manaslu Trail Race. I wish them all the best with their future running careers and I hope we can meet again at a large international race in future. It was also incredible to meet and make friends with other like-minded adventurers from all over the world.


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